timing -problem getting right side to align...

Snake

xsjohn. thanks, i will check the cam adjustment again

Snake

the ECI comment keeps coming up...and yes if the bike had come with it, wonderful...but i didn't. the fact people dismiss points as rubbish reminds me of working with our modern young people.....if the battery on their drill/screw driver runs out they sit and wait for it to charge up...until i remind them...there was a time we used a manual screw driver...imagine that!!.....and it actually used to work and we got the job done...

xsjohn

That picture would suggest a new chain.......small rod should move in and out just a bit with the engine running...engine at operating temperature....can turn the adjuster in and feel when it gets too tight...engine running.....the rod will start to stove up...then back it out a bit.....1/3 of a turn or so.....everyone has their own way of doing it but that's how I do mine.......and make sure the engine is warmed to operating temp....if not the chain will get too tight as the engine swells.....

xsjohn

Snake

sorry john, just so i get this, the adjustment is with the small hex headed "nut" that the rod comes through, i need to loosen the main bolt on the picture?, and rotate the barrell until the rod is level with the end of the hex nut?

xsjohn · Last edited by xsjohn on January 17, 2009, 5:24 pm; edited 1 time in total

Everyone has a problem understand this at first......rod flush is just a reference point........get engine to operating temperature....then remove the acorn nut and loosen the big nut a bit.....with a rag turn the adjuster (the thredded portion with the 10MM nut afixed to it) in till the inner rod stops boggeling in and out and then come out a 1/3 of a turn or so...preliminary flush settings can be too tight so backing it out may be necessary..that is fine tuning the cam chain adjustment.....if you just level the rod it may not be just right.............should be checked in the same way periodically....1000 miles or so .....

Chain too loose and as the cam passes over the lobes it snatches the chain causing it to wear guicker along with the guides.......too tight and it will eat the guides...

xsjohn

Snake

fantastic, thanks xsjohn. like most problems, when i had trouble with my right side timing, i wondered why, the only thing that had changed recently was my adjustment of the cam chain, i did it cold, and probably too much....so hopefully if i get that right, then i will get a bit longer out of the chain, and get my timing right

xsjohn

Would need to start with getting the chain right.....the next time you start it you could check to see if the chain is too tight....no rod movement...if it's tight cold it's gonna get tighter warm....always adjust it when the engine is hot.......that's where it will ride when you are riding....burnt fingers for sure sometimes......

xsjohn

Snake

ok, i will need to get the correct spanners to do that, bit hot n tight for the adjustable...

Snake

!^@%@$@^!*!.....damn LH points fix sscrew has stripped....after adjusting the cam chain with the motor hot, i got the right side to within a few mil of the F mark, then went to work on the left....damn screw stripped after i decided to check the gap again..........AND......now io have taken the plate out...i find the RH backing plate was already filed away...meaning ...cam chain...is worse then first thought......

650skull · Support Staff Joined: Jul 19, 2007 Posts: 1186

F*****g PO's

Snake

hey skull, did you see those parts on trademe?

650skull · Support Staff Joined: Jul 19, 2007 Posts: 1186

Yea, Thanks, he answered some of my questions waiting for the rest.

xsjohn

Skull..If you can't find a chain down there you could always raise the head..... Laughing

xsjohn

jayel

Snake wrote:

damn LH points fix sscrew has stripped......

take a small pointed pin punch and do a series of hit around that stripped hole (upsetting the metal to deform it) then you can re-tap it to size

Snake

thanks jayel, I’ll give it a go. i want to keep riding until winter, when i will take the motor down...and take a look. does using a thicker head gasket to lower compression have an effect on the cam chain?

jimmer

Is the screw stripped? (as you said) ... or is the hole stripped? Either way it won't hold unless you get it set and use locltite on the thread. Kinda picky ... but punching the hole and deforming metal around the hole will maybe make one thread hold. Thats not much. Maybe I'm missing something ... which is very likely.

650skull · Support Staff Joined: Jul 19, 2007 Posts: 1186

John, i think you have me confused..............................................With Snake...............
a guy goes into the doctors,
Doctor: Would you like the good new first or the bad news.
Patient: I would like the bad news first.
Doctor: You have cancer and have 3 months to live.
Patient: WHAT, 3 months, what's the good news
Doctor: You have altzheimers (check spelling) disease and you won't remember this conversation after you walk out the door

xsjohn

How could I possibly confuse anyone....... Laughing

jpowell

I think I'm a little confused... By the looks of the tensioner, and what I think John was saying Thats a new chain. But retarded, meaning firing after the F mark, that does point at a stretched chain

pamcopete

snake, jpowell et al

I think if it was me, before I tore the engine down for a suspected stretched chain, I would remove the advance rod and the advance unit and inspect the three locating pins and their associated holes for any indication of wear that could cause the problem.

I would also inspect the weights and their associated pins and springs and tabs for wear as well.

I might even go so far as to replace all these parts, along with the points cam and points, because if the chain is in fact stretched, then these parts are probably worn out as well. If the chain is not unduly stretched, then changing these parts will probably fix the problem.

jayel

Snake wrote:

does using a thicker head gasket to lower compression have an effect on the cam chain?

not really spaces the sprocket up a little higher but nothing the tensioner should be able to handle but since you would have to remove the head to replace or add a gasket it would make more sense to replace the chain while you've got it open,

jpowell

jayel, it does change the timing a bit. you're moving the cam away from the crank so it will ofset the cam a bit. xsjohn has done the math and I'm sure can tell you by how much.

xsjohn

A new chain won't go on with an extra gasket......and the cam "has" to be retarded 2 degrees (.020 thou within the chainwheel) or it won't run right....puts it back to stock cam timing....not hard but has to be done.....bottom line on that matter for sure.....but once you get it all together as above it really does fun quite nice........bit less power (say 2 horses or so) but really sweet.......and pulls right off from 1800 like it should....

xsjohn

Snake

thanks guys, i have the points back in, all clean and nice, the wires were worn so i replaced them....and.....she no start.....but it's dark and late now...so will have to wait until tomorrow....thanks again for all the advice

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