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xs650 > > Motorcycle Systems > > Fuel > > Critical petcock mounting question... |
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Critical petcock mounting question...
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TeeCat Full Member
Joined: Aug 21, 2007 Posts: 1120 Location: Central Maryland
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Posted: August 25, 2007, 11:49 am Post subject: Critical petcock mounting question... |
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Hi, guys...
Well, I have the leaky petcocks off the tank, and I'm glad I ordered new ones, because the existing ones appear to have been incorrect. They are shorter than the correct ones from Mikes, in terms of the position of the selection lever.
It appears that in order to compensate for an excessively high selection lever position (it likely hit the tank), a PO had placed a 1/8" (or so) spacer plate between each petcock and the (correct?) mounting surface on the bottom of the tank, then caulked or epoxied them to avoid leaks.
I got them off cleanly with no apparent damage to the tank. But here's my question:
What's left on the supposedly original mounting surfaces of the tank (they seem to be fine) is a hole for each bolt, and ONE OBLONG hole for BOTH feeder tubes to go through, as opposed to a hole for each tube like the spacers had. This looks correct in my Haynes, but the pic is so dark that I can't tell. So, may I proceed to mount the new petcocks directly to the bottom of the tank? They have o-rings, of course.
Also, the mounting bolts for one of the p/cocks are boogered. Can I just get like-threaded bolts from the hardware store and use them, and do I need to put any sealer or anything on the threads when I finally button them up? Thank you.
There's no way I'll get to those carbs and have this bike running this weekend. And then I have to go away for a bit this coming week. Rats. Delays... delays...
And the reserve tubes were COMPLETELY plugged! And there was likely not enough gas in the tank for the other tubes to pull from.
TC
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jayel 650Rider Supporter
Joined: Apr 16, 2006 Posts: 3417 Location: SE Iowa 1974 TX650A
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Posted: August 25, 2007, 12:04 pm Post subject: Re: Critical petcock mounting question... |
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yes just a oblong hole, easier to drill two holes in spacer than cut a slot, if the screws that mount the petcock are bad just replace them Lowes, Menards, Home Depot all have metric screw/bolts (it a 6mm x 1 pitch i think), if it the tank :^( bad luck the original screws have a fiber sealing washer on them look at mikesXS to see what you need
_________________ all it takes is time and money -- Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket? |
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TeeCat Full Member
Joined: Aug 21, 2007 Posts: 1120 Location: Central Maryland
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Posted: August 25, 2007, 12:13 pm Post subject: Re: Critical petcock mounting question... |
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Thanks, jayel! YAY!
I'm off to the hardware store. Thanks again!
TC
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TeeCat Full Member
Joined: Aug 21, 2007 Posts: 1120 Location: Central Maryland
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Posted: August 25, 2007, 2:56 pm Post subject: Re: Critical petcock mounting question... |
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Okay... I fitted the new petcocks with new screws, but the neoprene washers I tried as a stopgap seep - they crush too much and displace. So, I'll just order the ones from Mike's. The tank's pretty clean after having washed it out, and I'll have to have it really cleaned and Kreemed one day, but that will have to be future, after I get the bike runing and dialed in, somehow.
Tomorrow, I'll pull the carbs. Just didn't get there today.
I also will be using K&N filters. They're expensive, but I don't like those stock housings.
Thanks, guys, for your help thus far. Making progress in baby steps.
TC
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INXS650 650Rider Supporter
Joined: Mar 22, 2007 Posts: 645
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Posted: August 25, 2007, 10:34 pm Post subject: Re: Critical petcock mounting question... |
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The K&N's should make a difference on your top end. Make sure you richen your carbs alittle with the filters. Lean is bad, air cooled bikes don't like it.
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5twins Full Member
Joined: Aug 05, 2006 Posts: 1616
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Posted: August 25, 2007, 11:59 pm Post subject: Re: Critical petcock mounting question... |
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Get your K&Ns here. Best prices I've run across so far .....
www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/...ory_lookup
Just a bit over $26 each and free shipping. Get the RU-1820s if you have BS38s, the RU-0981s if you have the BS34s. The "RU" indicates a rubber end cap. Don't get the RC versions (chrome end caps) - they cost more and are a slightly smaller filter.
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