Burning oil

clutch · Posted: August 14, 2007, 11:37 pm Post subject: Burning oil

I just brought my bike back from the dead after it had been sitting two years. The right side is burning oil and fouling the spark plug. The guy I got it from said that it didn't burn oil when he last ran it and a friend I talked to said it may stop burning oil on its own after a bit. Is there something I could do to limit/fix this without replacing rings/valve seals? I would like to be able to run it the rest of the summer and save a tear down for the winter.

Thanks for the replies!

INXS650 · 650Rider Supporter Joined: Mar 22, 2007 Posts: 645

You may want to try a shorter plug. This will get the plug farther out of the combustion chamber. I used a Accel header plug for my 400 chrysler.

grizld1 · Posted: August 15, 2007, 9:13 am Post subject: Re: Burning oil

Excuse me, but for better cleaning of the tip you want the plug farther into the combustion chamber, which is why the protruded nose plugs were developed. Clutch, if you belive in magic, perform your incantations. Otherwise, put some gentle miles on and see if the rings free up and give you a seal. If not, you know what has to happen.

INXS650 · 650Rider Supporter Joined: Mar 22, 2007 Posts: 645

Just thinking of the old oil fouler inserts you could get for cars. It moved the plug out of the cylinder, so oil couldn't get on the plug and foul them. Shorter plug does the same thing.

xsjohn · Posted: August 15, 2007, 5:46 pm Post subject: Re: Burning oil

Griz is right....never could have solved my hotter right cylinder with the recessed tip..........Would suggest Autolite 63 (BP7ES)...Autolite 64(BP6ES) ....haven't bought an ngk in a while nor have I replaced an Autolite all summer........cheaper too........

John

INXS650 · 650Rider Supporter Joined: Mar 22, 2007 Posts: 645

He's not running rich, he is trying to burn Kuwait. Oil doesn't burn like gasoline, so you don't want your plug end in the oil.

xsjohn · Posted: August 15, 2007, 6:06 pm Post subject: Re: Burning oil

The extended tip runs cooler and cleans better .....

NGK BP7ES= Autolite 63
NGK BP6ES= Autolite 64

John

clutch · Posted: August 15, 2007, 11:57 pm Post subject: Re: Burning oil

Thanks for the advice!
I'm running the extended tip plugs right now (NGK BP7RES). I will try switching to the shorter tip to see if that helps. I would like to eventually run extended tip plugs, maybe once it stops burning oil. I think I'm running a little rich also so maybe I'll switch to an autolight 64 or a NGK BP6ES.
I've seen oil additives that are supposed to free up stuck rings, anyone had any experience with those?
Thanks!

grizld1 · Posted: August 16, 2007, 9:34 am Post subject: Re: Burning oil

The BP6RES may help you. Be sure to run premium fuel--oil cuts the effective octane rating of the mixture, so watch out for any signs of detonation. Oil additives are not a good idea--this ain't a car!

74yamabob · Full Member Joined: Mar 08, 2008 Posts: 24

I have the exsact same problem on my 74 the old man I bought the bike from is 70 and has been aroungd bikes since moses and the stone tablets. He told me to use a bottle of valve seal conditioner or whatever NAPA sales and should stop. I'll let you know if it works. Meanwhile keep me posted on the Plug solution I'm intrested to see if the BP6RES runs better I was thinking of using irranium.

clutch · Posted: March 19, 2008, 1:19 pm Post subject: Re: Burning oil

It never stopped burning oil/ fouling plugs. I stored it for the winter and now that it's warming up again, I think I'm going to try new rings. I've never done that before so I'm looking for advice. What kinds of parts/tools do I need and maybe a guide for the steps?
Thanks
Josh

royfisk · Posted: March 19, 2008, 1:29 pm Post subject: Re: Burning oil

service manual, basic hand tools, tork wrench, gasket set, rings. need to take it apart before ordering rings may already have been bored once or twice. ring compressor. service manual, that should do it, did i mention service manual????

5twins · Full Member Joined: Aug 05, 2006 Posts: 1616

Don't forget the front cam chain guide. Due to their age, most are falling apart now. I think it may be the #1 reason why most of us need to tear into our top ends Smile

clutch · Posted: March 19, 2008, 8:34 pm Post subject: Re: Burning oil

It looks like Mike's XS doesn't sell the original size rings, or am I just missing them?

Jake68 · 650Rider Supporter Joined: Mar 23, 2007 Posts: 841

Dont skimp, tear it down and rebuild the top end.

The bottom end is so strong, rebuilding the top end with a rebore and oversize would MASSIVELY increase the life of the bike.

Thats good right? :- )

Sticking in new rings and messing around, its a stop gap, you'll just end up doing it again at some point if you hang on to the bike.

clutch · Posted: March 19, 2008, 8:53 pm Post subject: Re: Burning oil

OK, thanks for the advice everyone!

Cooltouch · Posted: March 19, 2008, 9:24 pm Post subject: Re: Burning oil

As long as you've got the head off, you may as well do a valve job and replace the valve stem oil seals.

Best,

ichael

clutch · Posted: March 19, 2008, 10:02 pm Post subject: Re: Burning oil

This is going to be more expensive than I thought. Sad

kingwj · Posted: March 20, 2008, 7:52 am Post subject: Re: Burning oil

The rings are available for the 447 motor. They are for an Acura/

www.650motorcycles.com...ings.htmlg

Or you could go directly to a 750 cc.

royfisk · Posted: March 20, 2008, 9:23 am Post subject: Re: Burning oil

Jake68 wrote:

Dont skimp, tear it down and rebuild the top end.

The bottom end is so strong, rebuilding the top end with a rebore and oversize would MASSIVELY increase the life of the bike.

Thats good right? :- )

Sticking in new rings and messing around, its a stop gap, you'll just end up doing it again at some point if you hang on to the bike.

This is not a fact; If your barrels are good and within specifications why waist money and bore them. especially if your pistons are good. rings are cheaper then boreing,pistons, and rings. As for longevity of the bike reboreing actually takes life away from the top end cause now there is less room for future rebuilds, and will sooner be in need of new cylinders.

royfisk · Posted: March 20, 2008, 9:28 am Post subject: Re: Burning oil

Cooltouch wrote:

As long as you've got the head off, you may as well do a valve job and replace the valve stem oil seals.

Best,

ichael

Absolutely this might be where the oil burning is comming from in the first place. While your in there check your valve guides and valves for slop in the guides, even the best of seals will fail if the valve is so loose in the guide that it rocks around.

clutch · Posted: March 21, 2008, 11:17 am Post subject: Re: Burning oil

So it would be a good idea to check the valves first. Mother nature just bought me some more time too. 1 inch of snow today, another inch tomorrow...

royfisk · Posted: March 21, 2008, 12:33 pm Post subject: Re: Burning oil

would check it all, Your doing a top end.

clutch · Posted: April 5, 2008, 7:33 pm Post subject: Re: Burning oil

Can anyone recommend a good manual? I have a Clymer, but it's pretty vague. Also, I have an '82, which is just an add on to that book. It's mostly based on the older models. I also have a scanned copy of an '80 Yamaha manual, maybe that would be ok combined with another for '82 specs?

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