Main engine studs.... HELP!!!!!!

CoryJ · Posted: October 6, 2009, 7:57 pm Post subject: Main engine studs.... HELP!!!!!!

Any one have any good ideas on removing the (8) main engine studs that sandwich the whole the top end together? Need to have a crack in my case welded and one of the cam chain guide's screws have a tip from a impact driver snapped off in it. SO now I need to remove the big studs to drill and tap it correctly...... Help Please!!!!

P.S. already tried the old run to a hardware store and get a nut that backs up to the acorn nut on top. Doesn't work, studs are really in there!!!!

jayel

use THREE nuts tighten against one another heat the cases with a propane torch (HOT) before turning studs out

CoryJ

jayel wrote:

use THREE nuts tighten against one another heat the cases with a propane torch (HOT) before turning studs out

Tried using 2 against the crown nut, but no heat. Although heat is what I was thinking. Hope this won't warp the block. Off to the hardware store in the morning for more nuts, and a torch!!! FiRe GOOD!!! UGH!

gruff54 · New Member Joined: Mar 01, 2008 Posts: 5

I borrowed a buddy's stud removal tool after the two-nut trick didn't work. I was afraid of heating with a torch(warping). The studs were really tight, but came out. I think it was a Craftsman set. I don't have a part #. It grips the middle of the stud where it won't damage the threads. I slid it down as low as I could to keep the studs from twisting. Good luck!!

gruff

jayel

think the studs are red Loc-tited in needs heat to release the glue lol

CoryJ

Hmmmmm. Thanks guys. Needless to say, I never made it to the hardware store (I got a little too involved with a 12 pack of Odells 5 Barrel (Local Colorado brew)). I'm thinking maybe both now. Wonder if I heat the stud then use the puller, if that'll be better. My hold up on heat is that I actually have a matching numbers XS1B, and am trying as hard as possible to keep em matching for registration (just makes the whole process easier in Colorado). Thank you to everyone for the help.
Cory

P.S. From my Clymer manual it looks as if there may be a couple more bolts holding the cases together under the sump. Anyone have a 256 motor that can confirm this? My sump cover is sludge-locked on. Ha ha. Maybe some heat will get that off too!!!! Either way looks like I am not the first one to split the cases on this one, but judging by the "baby-poop" brown gasket glue/sealer that is on it, it's probably been at least 20 years since they were separated. Thanks again everyone. Awesome site! And great info for us first timers!

xsleo

none in the sump, one behind the clutch.

Srinath

jayel wrote:

think the studs are red Loc-tited in needs heat to release the glue lol

www.sears.com/shc/s/p_...904458000P

To pull the head studs out, would somehting like that work ?
Thanks in advance.
Cool.
Srinath.

650skull · Support Staff Joined: Jul 19, 2007 Posts: 1186

The XS1 and 1B has an extra one on the underside of the bottom case.

Quote::

none in the sump, one behind the clutch.

This is only on the electric start models from XS2 and later

gordo

Matco Tool's has a stud puller that is a pass through style. So you can get it down close to the case. Allot less twisting of the stud, and allot more leverage for removing the stud's.
How I did it was with the tool I described, and heated up the stud AND case, came right out. Oh, I used a Gearwrench on the stud puller, but a box wrench will do.
You'll also need a good anchor for the case, to keep it from moving around when you try to remove the stud's.

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