http://www.650rider.com/ 650Rider.com, xs650 en-us Mon, 07 Sep 2009 03:51:23 GMT 1440 CPG-Nuke Dragonfly 650 Rider News http://backend.userland.com/rss http://www.650rider.com/images/logo.jpg http://www.650rider.com/ http://www.650rider.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=52 650Rider offers Google Checkout & PayPal. Please select the option that best fits your needs. Thank you for your support. Here is a link to a forum posting to helps explain the email a bit: http://650rider.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=73248#73248 Enthusiast $10.00 Patron $25.00 Supporter $75.00 Sponsor $150.00 Benefactor $500.00 $10.00 - Enthusiast $25.00 - Patron $75.00 - Supporter $150.00 - Sponsor $500.00 - Benefactor Mon, 07 Sep 2009 03:51:23 GMT http://www.650rider.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=51 I ran into a problem that I have seen others post questions about. I solved mine - so I thought I would post the solution. Motorcycle shuts off intermittently - shortly after startup (after running for about 4-5 minutes) - but restarts again with no problem. The cause is momentary loss of power to the ignition Pack – 1st Check your Ignition Switch and your run stop switch to make sure the contacts are clean and tight. Clean or replace the Run and Ignitions switch(s). Both can be easily disassembled and cleaned. Screws in the Run switch are set with locktite to prevent further problems. Also clean contacts to the relay(on the connector) on the right side of the bike under the 650 panel (connector). The TCI pack has a safety feature built in to it, that if it loses signal from the ignition sending unit on the stator, it will shut down to prevent overload to the coil. It will also shut down if it loses power briefly. Restarting the bike - resets these features. Now the fix - Clean the terminals on the White harness connectors & resolder each wire to it's spade. You will need a fine scredriver to silde the spades out of the plastic connectors for inspection. Inspect and solder both at the power connector (6 prong) - under the side cover just below your tool pack - and at the sensor 3 prong connector - up between the carbs and battery. I discovered that cleaning the terminals what not enough - if you look at where the wire enters the terminal spade - you will see corrosion. You must clean and solder the connections on both connectors (x6) & (x3) I also opened up my TCI pack - and discovered a couple of cracked solder joints -vibration causes iffy connection - also shutting down pack - since my tci pack was not immersed in acrylic (thank god) I could easily access the circuit board - and VERY carefully resolder the connections that looked iffy on the circuit board. Becareful with the solder Iron - many components are heat sensitive. It seems to have cleaned up my problem - It hasn't died yet while running! So basically - from the ignition switch to the run stop - to the fuse in the battery terminal to all the connectors in the harness - down to the solder joints on the circuit board - any bad connection - or loss of signal will shut down your igniton. It takes patientience - but if you check them all - you should solve the "shuts down while running but restarts problem! Good Luck Jim Thu, 30 Oct 2008 15:19:27 GMT http://www.650rider.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=50 So one day my battery stopped charging unless I was at about 5K rpms. So I went to the shop to buy a new voltage regulator... Ok an Old Yamaha Mechanic told me while I was trying to buy it - that 90% of the time - it was caused by a bad rotor. First lets explain rotor and stator - in the alternator (under the left (as you sit on the bike) round Yamaha sidecover) - there is a coil that goes around the outside and does not move (stationary-stator) - that is the stator. the Rotor is the coil in the middle with two brass rings on it and two carbon brushes which ride on the brass rings to deliver voltage (Yes I said deliver!) The rotating coil is the rotor. How it all works - when your voltage regulator detects that your battery needs more charging - it applies 12v though the wires through some crappy connectors to the brushes which send the 12volts into the brass rings into the coils of the rotor and turn it into an ELECTROMAGNET! The spinning electromagnet creates voltage in the coils of the stator - which charge your battery / Run the bike! How to Diagnose and test your Rotor! 1) Remove the brushes your you will get a false reading! 2) get and ohm meter - set it to the x1 scale and zero it. 3) Take a reading from one brass ring on the rotor to the other - doesn't matter which lead (+ or -) goes to which ring. 4) If it is 5 ohms up to around 10 it is good 5) If it is 4 ohms or less it is bad (0 is bad and infinite is also bad!) 6) One by one measure from each ring to frame ground you should get infinite (if you didn't remove the brushes you are now getting a false reading) If the rotor is bad - buy a new one - Rotors for bikes with point ignitions are different than rotors for bikes with TCI ignitons. Also Buy a rotor puller from MikesXS and save a ton of work in getting the old one off. Finally under the left side panel are two white multi-wire plastic connectors - one is for ignition - one is for charging - clean the all terminals on both - and reassemble them with die-electric grease. You may even want to solder the terminals to the wires they are "crimped to" for a better connection. NOTE: to remove the terminals from the white holders - use a paperclip or small screwdriver to depress the small barb on the spade connector) and gently pull it back and out of the connector - DO THIS ONE AT A TIME TO KEEP THEM IN THE CORRECT ORDER IN THE CONNECTOR> Clean connections and a cool rotor are a big part of keeping this bike running! Thu, 30 Oct 2008 15:19:09 GMT http://www.650rider.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=49 So one day my battery stopped charging unless I was at about 5K rpms. So I went to the shop to buy a new voltage regulator... Ok an Old Yamaha Mechanic told me while I was trying to buy it - that 90% of the time - it was caused by a bad rotor. First lets explain rotor and stator - in the alternator (under the left (as you sit on the bike) round Yamaha sidecover) - there is a coil that goes around the outside and does not move (stationary-stator) - that is the stator. the Rotor is the coil in the middle with two brass rings on it and two carbon brushes which ride on the brass rings to deliver voltage (Yes I said deliver!) The rotating coil is the rotor. How it all works - when your voltage regulator detects that your battery needs more charging - it applies 12v though the wires through some crappy connectors to the brushes which send the 12volts into the brass rings into the coils of the rotor and turn it into an ELECTROMAGNET! The spinning electromagnet creates voltage in the coils of the stator - which charge your battery / Run the bike! How to Diagnose and test your Rotor! 1) Remove the brushes your you will get a false reading! 2) get and ohm meter - set it to the x1 scale and zero it. 3) Take a reading from one brass ring on the rotor to the other - doesn't matter which lead (+ or -) goes to which ring. 4) If it is 5 ohms up to around 10 it is good 5) If it is 4 ohms or less it is bad (0 is bad and infinite is also bad!) 6) One by one measure from each ring to frame ground you should get infinite (if you didn't remove the brushes you are now getting a false reading) If the rotor is bad - buy a new one - Rotors for bikes with point ignitions are different than rotors for bikes with TCI ignitons. Also Buy a rotor puller from MikesXS and save a ton of work in getting the old one off. Finally under the left side panel are two white multi-wire plastic connectors - one is for ignition - one is for charging - clean the all terminals on both - and reassemble them with die-electric grease. You may even want to solder the terminals to the wires they are "crimped to" for a better connection. NOTE: to remove the terminals from the white holders - use a paperclip or small screwdriver to depress the small barb on the spade connector) and gently pull it back and out of the connector - DO THIS ONE AT A TIME TO KEEP THEM IN THE CORRECT ORDER IN THE CONNECTOR> Clean connections and a cool rotor are a big part of keeping this bike running! Thu, 30 Oct 2008 15:14:30 GMT http://www.650rider.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=48 Ok an Yamaha mechanic told me this trick when I was about to drop $100 on a voltage regulator that I didn't need... In 99% of all cases where the battery dies and doesn't charge anymore - it is the Rotor - the part that the brushes spin on in the center of the alternator on the left side of your bike - under the round Yamaha cover.. . Thu, 30 Oct 2008 15:13:07 GMT http://www.650rider.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=47 Ok an Yamaha mechanic told me this trick when I was about to drop $100 on a voltage regulator that I didn't need... In 99% of all cases where the battery dies and doesn't charge anymore - it is the Rotor - the part that the brushes spin on in the center of the alternator on the left side of your bike - under the round Yamaha cover. . . Thu, 30 Oct 2008 15:12:19 GMT http://www.650rider.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=46 Ok an Yamaha mechanic told me this trick when I was about to drop $100 on a voltage regulator that I didn't need... In 99% of all cases where the battery dies and doesn't charge anymore - it is the Rotor - the part that the brushes spin on in the center of the alternator on the left side of your bike - under the round Yamaha cover. Just because sometime people confuse the terms - the OUTER windings of the alternator that don't move are called the STATOR - (stationary) the part that spins in the middle - and has two brushes that ride on it - is the rotor (rotates) it has one reverse thread nut holding it on. DIAGNOSIS A bike runs on 12v but needs 13 or more to charge.... To check for sure - follow the Mechanics Manual's directions to remove the alternator brushes - then put an ohm meter across the two brass rings that the brushes ride on - (Make sure you have zeroed you ohm meter and are on the x1 scale.) Put one lead on EACH brass Ring... You should get 5 ohm or MORE -on a Good Rotor... IF you get 4 ohms or less or infinite - your rotor is bad. Now one at a time move one lead to ground - and read between ground and each ring - IT SHOULD NOT BE ZERO OR A LOW NUMBER that indicates a short in the windings of the rotor to ground - and again - it's bad. Don't do this test with the brushes still on - your readings will be wrong. If the rotor is bad -Buy a new rotor from Mikes or a good used one from a junkyard - or there are even places who will rewind for you but make sure you BUY A ROTOR PULLER TOO! for $20 AND SAVE YOURSELFT A TON OF WORK! Also Check Also as per my "motorcyle dies intermittently article" Clean you electrical connections ( 6 & 8 spade Connectors) in the two white connectors under the left side cover. One white group connector is for ignition - and the other one is for Charging. Use die-electric grease when you put them back together to keep them clean. You may even want to solder the spade connectors to the wires to insure there is good electrical contact. Note that the spade connectors are aluminum or silver and the wire is copper leading to oxidization at the crimp level. Soldering each one solves this. Use a toothpick or very small screw driver to push down the barb that holds each spade connector into the White Shell. Do them one at a time so you don't mix them up. REMEMBER TO ALWAYS CHECK THE NEW ROTOR FOR CORRECT OHMS BEFORE YOU INSTALL IT - Good Luck Jim O Fri, 24 Oct 2008 12:52:32 GMT http://www.650rider.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=45 Ok an Yamaha mechanic told me this trick when I was about to drop $100 on a voltage regulator that I didn't need... In 99% of all cases where the battery dies and doesn't charge anymore - it is the Rotor - the part that the brushes spin on in the center of the alternator on the left side of your bike - under the round Yamaha cover. Just because sometime people confuse the terms - the OUTER windings of the alternator that don't move are called the STATOR - (stationary) the part that spins in the middle - and has two brushes that ride on it - is the rotor (rotates) it has one reverse thread nut holding it on. DIAGNOSIS A bike runs on 12v but needs 13 or more to charge.... To check for sure - follow the Mechanics Manual's directions to remove the alternator brushes - then put an ohm meter across the two brass rings that the brushes ride on - (Make sure you have zeroed you ohm meter and are on the x1 scale.) Put one lead on EACH brass Ring... You should get 5 ohm or MORE -on a Good Rotor... IF you get 4 ohms or less or infinite - your rotor is bad. Now one at a time move one lead to ground - and read between ground and each ring - IT SHOULD NOT BE ZERO OR A LOW NUMBER that indicates a short in the windings of the rotor to ground - and again - it's bad. Don't do this test with the brushes still on - your readings will be wrong. If the rotor is bad -Buy a new rotor from Mikes or a good used one from a junkyard - or there are even places who will rewind for you but make sure you BUY A ROTOR PULLER TOO! for $20 AND SAVE YOURSELFT A TON OF WORK! Also Check Also as per my "motorcyle dies intermittently article" Clean you electrical connections ( 6 & 8 spade Connectors) in the two white connectors under the left side cover. One white group connector is for ignition - and the other one is for Charging. Use die-electric grease when you put them back together to keep them clean. You may even want to solder the spade connectors to the wires to insure there is good electrical contact. Note that the spade connectors are aluminum or silver and the wire is copper leading to oxidization at the crimp level. Soldering each one solves this. Use a toothpick or very small screw driver to push down the barb that holds each spade connector into the White Shell. Do them one at a time so you don't mix them up. REMEMBER TO ALWAYS CHECK THE NEW ROTOR FOR CORRECT OHMS BEFORE YOU INSTALL IT - Good Luck Jim O Fri, 24 Oct 2008 12:52:17 GMT http://www.650rider.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=44 So one day my battery stopped charging unless I was at about 5K rpms. So I went to the shop to buy a new voltage regulator... Ok an Old Yamaha Mechanic told me while I was trying to buy it - that 90% of the time - it was caused by a bad rotor. First lets explain rotor and stator - in the alternator (under the left (as you sit on the bike) round Yamaha sidecover) - there is a coil that goes around the outside and does not move (stationary-stator) - that is the stator. the Rotor is the coil in the middle with two brass rings on it and two carbon brushes which ride on the brass rings to deliver voltage (Yes I said deliver!) The rotating coil is the rotor. How it all works - when your voltage regulator detects that your battery needs more charging - it applies 12v though the wires through some crappy connectors to the brushes which send the 12volts into the brass rings into the coils of the rotor and turn it into an ELECTROMAGNET! The spinning electromagnet creates voltage in the coils of the stator - which charge your battery / Run the bike! How to Diagnose and test your Rotor! 1) Remove the brushes your you will get a false reading! 2) get and ohm meter - set it to the x1 scale and zero it. 3) Take a reading from one brass ring on the rotor to the other - doesn't matter which lead (+ or -) goes to which ring. 4) If it is 5 ohms up to around 10 it is good 5) If it is 4 ohms or less it is bad (0 is bad and infinite is also bad!) 6) One by one measure from each ring to frame ground you should get infinite (if you didn't remove the brushes you are now getting a false reading) If the rotor is bad - buy a new one - Rotors for bikes with point ignitions are different than rotors for bikes with TCI ignitons. Also Buy a rotor puller from MikesXS and save a ton of work in getting the old one off. Finally under the left side panel are two white multi-wire plastic connectors - one is for ignition - one is for charging - clean the all terminals on both - and reassemble them with die-electric grease. You may even want to solder the terminals to the wires they are "crimped to" for a better connection. NOTE: to remove the terminals from the white holders - use a paperclip or small screwdriver to depress the small barb on the spade connector) and gently pull it back and out of the connector - DO THIS ONE AT A TIME TO KEEP THEM IN THE CORRECT ORDER IN THE CONNECTOR> Clean connections and a cool rotor are a big part of keeping this bike running! Sun, 21 Oct 2007 23:01:13 GMT http://www.650rider.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=43 I ran into a problem that I have seen others post questions about. I solved mine - so I thought I would post the solution. Motorcycle shuts off intermittently - shortly after startup (after running for about 4-5 minutes) - but restarts again with no problem. The cause is momentary loss of power to the ignition Pack – 1st Check your Ignition Switch and your run stop switch to make sure the contacts are clean and tight. Mon, 08 Oct 2007 16:55:18 GMT